Painting a Lotus

By Kiyoshi Hamai
Chapman Report – March 1979

Periodically even Lotuses must be repainted; when the paint oxidizes to the point of no return (a permanent buff) or after the repair of "El Crunch-O". In the case of the former this means a total repaint, in the case of the later, it usually means, "We’ll match it as best we can… " A bit of research in the handy-dandy shop manual we learn there is an entire section devoted to body repair and painting. I feel that any owner even thinking about painting his Lotus should expect to have SOME bodywork done. I say this because I have yet to see a Lotus without crazing or spider webbing. From the Europa Shop Manual:

"Crazing itself generally stops at the first layer of fibre glass and is consequently not in itself structurally serious, but the extensive crazing near damaged areas should be taken as an indication of over stressing and the panel should be reinforced or replaced. It is not possible to remedy crazing by simply re-surfacing with a further layer of resin."

The reality is that if we are to re-paint our Lotus we are planning to do some bodywork.

I doubt seriously if there is any real solution to crazing, consider fiberglass flexes even under its own weight. Therefore we compromise between cost, practicality and beauty. The best results I have seen has been when the first layer of gelcoat has been ground off and the area re-gelcoated. (Remember, the crazing is only about one layer deep.) If the area has been extensively damaged reinforcing from the back side will be required. Use NO Bondo! Use fiber putty in alternating layers of fiber mat. Newly glassed areas must be sealed before priming.

A few words about painting; obviously the ideal would be for the old paint to be completely stripped. (Please note the old paint should be gently ground off so the fiberglass will not be subjected to harmful solvents.) Then proceed to straighten the body and reinforce and re-gelcoat as needed, followed by the priming and painting. It sounds simple, but it is not! This explains why there exists an entire spectrum of body shops doing a variety of "individualized" qualities of workmanship. Never has the old adage, "You get what you pay for," been more fitting.

A discussion of the assortment of paint shops would be subject enough for a doctorial thesis, but for the sake of this article I will divide the shops into 3 basic categories; 1) Miracle Special, 2) Better Shops, 3) Concours Shop.

THE MIRACLE SPECIAL


A shop which is usually highly known and highly advertised. Specializes in revitalizing your jalopy into a gem for just $69.99 in one day! Unless you remove much of the trim, chrome and rubber ahead of time, expect painted molding, bright metal and tires. All bodywork is extra, beyond the usual "hand snading" to rough up the old paint. The new paint is usually sprayed directly over the old and any cracks are expected to be hidden under the "thick" layer of "specially" sprayed paint. The paint used is primarily acyrlic enamel These shops are usually the fastest and the cheapest, $50 to $500.

THE BETTER SHOP


These shops are usually privately owned, many specializing in fiberglass and luxury/limited production cars. Also included are dealership shops, such as Chevy Corvette dealers. The quality and price varies greatly among these shops therefore thorough shopping, checking each shops work and reputation against their price will aid you greatly in your ultimate satisfaction. A typical full body paint job would include: removal of all chrome, trim and lights, grinding out crazing and re-gelcoating as appropriate, excellent masking, 2-3 coats of primer, door jambs painted, engine and trunk lids removed, 3-4 coats of acyrlic lacquer with hand and machine rubbing between coats. The cost can be anywhere from $1000 to $5000 or more and may take 2-10 weeks.

THE CONCOURS SHOP


These are always very specialized, custom shops which take great pride and pains in their work. Many jobs can take 3-6 months to complete. Work usually includes the straightening of all cracks, the filling of holes, removal of all chrome, trim, lights, and windows, the stripping of all paint, and re-gelcoating as necessary. The entire body is then primed and painted with as many coats as necessary to attain a deep glossy shine. In many cases the chrome stuff is also replated before being mounted on the car. Costs vary according to the job, but usually start at $3000.

Most of us having limited cash flow want the concours work for the miracle special price. This is an impossibility in the free enterprise system, so we must turn to the Better Shops to search out a compromise between cost and beauty. The best advise when shopping for a shop is to know EXACTLY what you’re getting for the price.

GUIDELINE TO GETTING THE MOST FOR THE LEAST (shopping)

  1. Write down EXACTLY what you want the car to look like when finished, list it in detail.
  2. Make sure when getting a written estimate that the work on the estimate reflects all of the work needed to be done to get the results you have listed.
  3. SHOP! It is your right to shop. When shopping check for – Working conditions (is it clean, organized, etc.); what is the quality of the work that has been completed (does it look like what you would like on your car?); and what is the reputation of the shop? (check with local insurance adjusters).
  4. Understand the estimate thoroughly, check the hourly rate for labor (labor is 90% of the cost). Compare the hours needed between shops to do the same work, and DO NOT be afraid to question why it takes "X" hours to complete "X" amount of work.
  5. Consider stripping and replacing the chrome and lights yourself. This will save you paying for many hours of labor.
  6. When you’ve decided, it is a good idea to pick a shop fairly close to home so, a) you can easily check on the progress and b) if in the event there are problems the shop is nearby.

There are many different types of paint, but there are three major types which are most commonly used. These are:

ACYRLIC ENAMEL: A very glossy and somewhat orange peely paint. Very hard, and inflexible, therefore it is a very durable paint yet it is prone to cracking when flexed. Can be difficult to rub out.

ACYRLIC LACQUER: A very high gloss paint with no orange peeliness since each coat is rubbed out before the next coat is applied. Very hard and somewhat brittle, but has the deepest looking finish.

POLYURETHANE: Two part paints. Have very glossy and somewhat orange peely finish since it is very difficult to rub out due to its hardness. It is extremely durable, yet remains flexible, seems to be well suited for fiberglass. Must be applied with the strictest attention to the amount of hardeners and the temperature of application (I’ve heard of miserable failures because of the lack of attention to these details). Make sure that the shop is experienced with Polyurethanes. It is the most expensive of the 3 types of paints, yet the most durable. Do not shoot clear polyurethane over lacquer. They are not compatible.

 

Finally a word about insurance companies; so much of bodywork is paid for by insurance companies, yet most lay folks know so little about their rights when settling with an insurance company. Here are 3 things that you as a consumer are legally protected and entitled to:

  1. A written estimate for the repairs.
  2. A detailed invoice of the work done and parts required.
  3. The return of replaced parts, if requested at the time a work order is placed.

Also you have the right to:

  1. Take your car to the shop of your choice.
  2. Contact more than one shop for a written estimate if you wish.
  3. Dispute the amount of the loss if you do not agree with the insurer.

Finally…

  1. Remember you are responsible for the cost of repairs and any arrangements for payment by your insurance company are your responsibility.
  2. The Automotive Repair Act of 1971 (California) requires all repair dealers to be registered with the State of California and to post a sign. The department of Consumer Affairs may invalidate the registration for a number of causes, including: Willful departure from or disregard of accepted trade standards for good and workman-like repair (would apply for any repairs which would render the car unsafe), and the repair facility will use diligence in location of parts and materials to expedite repairs.